Snorkeling at Yoshino Beach

It’s Wednesday AM, and this is our last full day in Miyako.  Our flight Thursday leaves at 730 PM back to Tokyo, so we can do a lot tomorrow, depending on the weather.

The wind is howling, and I’m pondering how to plan our day.  It isn’t raining now, but that could change. I’m surprised that it hasn’t been wet. My other worry is whether our flight tomorrow will be affected by the typhoon.

I’ll recap yesterday’s events.  We had the breakfast buffet again. This time, a bit more leisurely since we didn’t have to meet Happy. 

The buffet restaurant was bustling.  It was like this yesterday.  Probably overpriced at ¥2,000 per person, but our free tickets makes it a bargain.

You’ll notice an unusual food item on the tray on the right. Upon clearing our table, the waitress had to return Em’s phone.  Em is fortunate that her hands are attached to her body.  Otherwise those would have been left behind somewhere. We’ll have to somehow attach Em’s zories to her body.

Here is the Ube pastry.  It is quite purple! And delicious.

Here are some daytime views from our balcony.  The beach is so so, the snorkeling so so, and the pool is so so.  Fortunately, the rest of island has a lot to do.

After breakfast, we drive to Yoshino Beach.  It is one of the best snorkeling beaches in Miyakojima.  We arrive early, about 9AM, and we are one of the first there.  There is a cheesy looking guy on the road, waving us over.  I read that parking was ¥500, and then you’re shuttled down a steep, winding road to the beach. But he says, because of the weather, it’s free.  Not quite sure what is going on, we follow his direction, park, and get our gear into the van.

We’re taking down the aforementioned steep, winding road, in a rickety white van, and arrive at what looked like a homeless encampment run by someone who looks homeless.  

He truly is what we would call a Japanese bimbo (that means poor in Japanese, not a dumb blond). Here is a view of it from the beach.  

On our way, we pass another parking lot which had a sign saying ¥500, so we theorize that there are competing entities.  We’re shuttled to the encampment and asked to rent needed items.  I indicate that we have all the stuff we need, and he smiles and points us down a rickety wooden trail to the beach.  Kind of reminded me of a bridge in Mexico.  Connie makes it down ok.

Here is Yoshino beach, which isn’t much, but it is what is beyond the beach which gets us there.

I also read that rentals of chairs and umbrella are ¥1,000, but this is “sabisu” today.  It means free.  Connie and I are pretty jaded, and we question why everything is free today??  Oh well, it turns out that everyone there was just really nice.  Parking, van shuttle both ways, a place to keep our gear, all for free.

Em and I get in and we immediately are awed.  The water is quite clear, and the coral is in really good shape, despite the crowds that I suspect frequent the beach.  We saw several who would stand on the coral, and it made me cringe.

Here is Akira, who immediately befriended me. 

He came right up to my hands. He complimented Em and me on our snorkel gear, and I told him that Happy rented it to us.  He had heard of Happy before from prior clients, but Akira and Happy have never met.

Akira, also for free, told me he would guide me around the area. Though suspicious, we took him up on his offer.

He introduced me to some of his friends.  Above, meet Jun, Masato and Sho (in the background).  Sho is Akira's half brother.

He showed us some of the formations.

Akira had some shopping to do, so he says bye and disappears beneath a rock.  

I was going to give him a tip, but I didn’t have any ¥ on me, and he would probably be offended, so I just tipped my mask at him.  Mistake, as the ocean water quickly started stinging my eyes.

We were very lucky that the weather wasn’t bad enough to affect the visibility.

Here is a video of our visit.  I'm not a videographer, so no criticism, please.

You can see Em swimming about in this video.

Unfortunately, when I gave the camera to Em, since she wanted to take some pictures, she said it wasn’t working.  Upon looking at it, I immediately realized there was trouble. There was condensation on the inside of the LCD and the lens.  It’s an old camera, so I am not too disappointed with the probable catastrophic failure of the waterproof seals. I just hoped that my pictures and videos of Akira, et al, would be salvageable.  Once back on dry land, I dried the exterior thoroughly, and open the SD compartment, and the SD card was wet.  I dried it and put it in a spare zip lock, and hoped for the best.  As you can see it worked out. This camera has been a workhorse for many years, so RIP.

While there, we even got Connie to float with her life vest, mask and snorkel.  She was also amazed at the views, but she didn’t want to get to deeper areas to see the really neat views.

After about 2 to 3 hours, we decided to head back to Max Valu.  We got lunch (sushi, and other neat things), then shopped a bit in the small outdoor mall, had our obligatory frozen desserts, and returned to our rooms to clean up.  Em and I went to the crowded pool for the next hour or so.  The pool wasn’t that great, a bit crowded and only about 3 to 4 feet deep all around.

We had some difficulty with dinner.  We had decided to go to this Italian place for pizza (¥2,000 pizza!), since it was close and the weather wasn’t looking great. When we get there, it turns out that the nice looking, but empty, place wouldn’t seat us without a reservation.  Strange. Oh, well.

Since we couldn’t agree on things, we decide to go back to (drum roll) Hiro!

Soki Soba is Miyakojima’s special noodle dish.  It is a chewy udon like bowl of noodles with barbecue spareribs.  It is flavored just like Butakakuni.

More Kaki furai, and this day, we get some really good potato fries.

This day we share a bowl of Satou Kiba Kibi Ice Cream.  

Not quite sure what this is.  Kiba Kibi translates to millet in English, but sugar millet ice cream doesn’t quite make sense.  It was really good, with a subtle flavor. 

Addendum, Satou Kibi is Sugarcane, duh...

So, as I sit here on Wednesday AM, I see that the weather isn’t really that bad, that the weather maps show that the worst should have passed already, and that the hotel is still standing.  We’ll go out later.

Maehama Beach

A little bit worried now.  Typhoon Henry (aka Matmo) is now headed in our general direction.  Though it is not thought to be a direct threat to Miyakojima, it will quite likely affect our beach activities.  Anyway, we'll see.

Monday's breakfast was here at our hotel.  We got several vouchers for free breakfast upon check-in, and we decided to use them. It was a buffet breakfast full of Japanese food.  Rice, Okayu, pastries, fruits, salads, tsukemono, etc. While here in Miyako, we've seen a variety of foods which use Ube, a purple yam, which is as sweet as any fruit.  The purple is very bright in color. There was a really delicious Ube roll, which was rich from butter, and sweet from the potato.

Here's Em's breakfast tray, with (clockwise, from top left) a chawan of multigrain rice, natto, a couple of marinated salads, fruit and bread, potatoes, really sweet pineapple (before and after), an Ube pastry, Bitter melon puree, and a firm cold fermented tofu with various toppings.

After breakfast, we had a discreet meeting with a guy named Happy. When we checked in, I inquired about snorkel rentals.  In my research, many of the more popular beaches on Miyako had booths with beach rentals, like umbrellas, snorkel equipment, towels, and floating toys. Also there were a lot of dive and snorkel operators who did day trips including equipment, but not rentals for, say a week. Since we were planning on going to several different beaches this trip, I didn't want to do individual rentals at every single place!  I had not found a single rental place, like they have in Hawaii, which would rent you the equipment for a week at a time.  Anyway, the front desk man at our hotel told me that the beach here did rent equipment for the day only, and only allowed you to use their equipment at the hotel.  When I asked if there were places to rent equipment for our entire stay, he said that every single beach has rentals and that I should just rent from them.  Clearly a conspiracy.

Fortunately, at the airport, I picked up a couple of those throw away magazines, like "Guide magazine to Miyako Island," filled with ads for tour guides, restaurants, and condos. They're all in Japanese, none in English.  But I went to the Snorkel area of the guide book and tried to look at the written descriptions, and one stood out.  It was the only one that didn't describe their selections in "per hour." Their selection was "per week."  Went to their website, and the google translator told me all I needed.

I called Happy right before breakfast and arranged for him to meet us outside the hotel at 830. I told him I was willing to drive to his place, but this was answered with a stern, "iie."  He said he didn't have a store. So, I'm walking out in front of the hotel, and walked right by him, and when I was about 10 feet from him, I hear my last name mumbled.  He obviously didn't know me, but wondered if I was the guy. I turned around, looked at him, and listened as he asked if I was the guy.

The four of us walk about 150 feet to his van, filled with snorkel equipment.  An older man of about 60+ years. He tells me that the hotel doesn't like him.  He obviously takes away business from them.  He efficiently gets us all equipped with snorkel, fins, mask, water shoes, and a life vest.  Only one of us really needs a life vest, but he insists that it is a set and we should take them.  All the equipment fills two large duffels.  I give the man a man (4 x ¥2500 is a man).  He asks me if I have a rental car, and when I tell him the agency name, he knows exactly the place.  He says on the day of departure, that I should dump the two duffels in front of a vending machine right outside the rental agency.  He will come by and pick it up later that day.  He knows nothing of me besides my last name and where I'm staying.  I could just keep all the stuff (it is all used, but in great condition), and he would never be able to find me (the hotel would certainly never give out details of who I am...).  Interesting business model, but I guess it works for him.  I would use his service again without question.

We're all rigged up, and I decide to go to Maehama beach.  It should be a nice intro for all of us.  Nice shallow waters and pure white sand.  Upon arriving, parking, and gathering up our supplies and food (which we got on the way at Max Valu), we see a beautiful beach filled with a bunch of umbrellas and  lounge chairs.  Being not certain what the procedure is, we approach one of these groups, and a young man, looking obviously older than his years from UV exposure without sunscreen, approaches us.  He asks us if want to rent a banana boat, or beach toys, or other things.  Fortunately, he has some grasp of English. I tell him we would just like two lounge chairs and an umbrella.  The equipment has obviously seen better times, since the edges were tattered and the steel was no longer shiny, but brown.

"Only ¥2000."  Oh well, we didn't want to end up looking like him, so I pull out a couple of bills, and settle down under our umbrella.

The water looked so beautiful, a turquoise blue in various shades, depending on the depth of the water.  It was quite shallow pretty far out.  There was a left to right current, which increased in strength throughout our stay.  The left to right wind increased as well, and at one point, the umbrella flew away.  Our young, old guy runs over and apologizes, while redoing our abode. 

When we were snorkeling out in the water, we saw a number of fish, but the number was not large. Sorry, no underwater pics, since I left the camera at the car.

Apparently, Connie suffers another minor mishap in the water when she is wading with Sammie.  Getting a little bit careless, they wade out a bit too far, and even though she has a life vest on, Connie felt a need to grab onto Sam in a panic. Sam tells her to let go, since Sam is pulled down, but Connie doesn't listen.  They were rescued by a couple of women with floatie tubes. Em, who is busy digging a hole to China the US, and I, relaxing in a lounge chair, try to pretend we don't know the odd couple.

Having enough of this, we pack up and return to our hotel, only to realize that Em has left her zories on the ground where we parked the car.  This is a 20 minute drive, I'll have you know! I say, just get a new pair, but all I hear are complaints.  It's a well broken in pair of high end zories, I'm told.  So, back to Maehama Beach and Em lucks out.  Still right there.  We theorize that our space remained unoccupied due to those zories on the ground.  On the way back, we detour to Max Valu (do you get the impression we like the place?), and get some icy refreshments.  I got a Haagen Daz green tea ice cream sandwich, and it was gooood.

After returning (again) to our hotel, Em and I go out snorkeling in the bay outside.  We see a number of fish, and explore the crags that line the bay. The water isn't really clear, but we do see some prettiness out there.

We return to scene of one of our prior crimes, Hiro Shokudo, later that night. We get a number of great dishes, including some repeats.

I get the standard Nama Biru, Orion today. Umi-budou (just as crisp and Umi-like as the night before), veggie stir fry, Kaki fry (two orders of this, which didn't have ANY of that off-flavor of cooked oysters -- super fresh), Ebi fry, and somen champuru (two orders). I loved the shredded cabbage with miso dressing. The service was just as bad as the previous night, and I find it strange that Connie keeps complaining about it, yet she still wants to go back.  That's how good the food is.  We may be back.

So, still worried about the typhoon.  We may not get out for any more snorkeling this trip... :(  Winds are supposed to be up to about 40 kMpH...  I am "pretty sure" our flight out will be ok.  Neoguri only closed MMY for one day, and this isn't half as bad.

22 Hours of Travel

Well, we arrived in Miyakojima, at about 10 AM Sunday, "just" 22 hours after taking off from SFO. I hardly slept during this interval; actually none of us slept well.  It was obvious from our foul moods on Sunday. Our breaths likely matched our moods.  Sam and I actually took a shower (not together) at 4 AM in the International Terminal at Haneda while Em was busy reading her book, and Connie was sprawled across several terminal chairs in the Arrival Lobby. The shower was invigorating, but this was only temporary.

Haneda has three terminals (International, and two Domestic), and only the International terminal is open 24/7.  Many were "camped out" across the chairs throughout several floors of the building.  It actually took a bit of time to find adjacent benches at 1 in the AM, so that we could also "camp out."

The trans-Pacific leg was actually 'OK."  We flew on JAL, non stop, on the new "Dreamliner," or B787.  This is a plastic plane, and because of the composites using in its manufacture, more humidity can be used in the air.  Also, there is a higher cabin pressure than other airliners.  Supposedly, this makes for a more comfortable trip; however, JAL puts more passengers into this plane than ideal. I felt that the legroom was not good, and you all know that I require less of that than most.

However, the food on board was good.  Katsu curry (sort of mushy), a nice salad (why did they use Ranch dressing???), Miso soup from a pitcher served in a paper cup, Zaru Soba, and smoked salmon on top of potato salad. Connie was impressed. But, there was free alcohol.  So, I ordered a whisky (that's how they spell it just like the Scots), neat, with a bottle of water. No choice, but I didn't ask, and they gave me a rather generous pour of Chivas for our snack accompaniment. Nice.  I decided to order another, with dinner, since I wasn't going to drive, and I wanted to get a little shut eye.  The nice attendant gives me a huge pour!

It didn't help me sleep though.  I felt like I needed to stretch my legs out beyond the row of seats three in front of me.

Also, JAL puts a USB port just to the left of the tray table on the seat back in front of the passenger.  I had read in Seat Guru that JAL also puts a Universal AC port on each seat.  It took me an hour of searching to find it.  Actually, Sammie, found it.  Right under the front of the seat. Nice touch from JAL.

Connie lost her Jade earring during the flight.  It had likely come off when she was using the JAL over-the-ear headset for the in-flight entertainment (which was quite good). We couldn't locate it during the flight.  Upon landing, since we had no quick connection to make, we were the last to disembark, and we were on our hands and knees, looking for it.  Two attendants were wondering what was up, obviously, so they started tearing up the seats, and helped us look.  Finally, one of the attendants yells "atta!"  Relief.

Since we were so late getting off the plane, and because Connie had some mishaps in the restroom in the airport immediately upon disembarkation, by the time we finished Immigration and arrived in Baggage Claim, there was no one there. But our four bags were already neatly placed in a luggage cart adjacent to the baggage carousel!  How do these things seem to happen in Japan?

Anyway, about 445 AM Sunday, we begin the second leg of the day. We mosey on out to the free shuttle to the domestic terminals, where we're to catch the 655 AM flight to Miyakojima. We used the  Oneworld Yokoso fare ($100 per domestic flight anywhere in Japan), the four of us got our HND <-> MMY fares for about $800+.  Not bad, considering these flights are usually triple that cost.

Checking in to Japan Transocean Air (a domestic airline in Japan, but not one of the LCC's, half owned by JAL), was interesting.  We didn't do web check in, since the website wouldn't allow me (either cuz I'm illiterate in Japanese or because I'm a gaijin). I give them our printed ticket receipt and the airline rep issues four boarding passes.  No ID check.  We could have been four random, other, people.  Maybe we "looked" ok.  We got on board, and arrived without anyone knowing who we were.

Here I am, holding Connie's Kuuko-ben in my lap.

Anyway, the B737 that took us to Miyakojima had way way more legroom than the B787.  I was much more comfortable.  What was really nice was that we got a really clear view of Fuji-san on our Starboard side.

This photo really doesn't do justice to how imposing Fuji looks. We were really close. I've actually seen this view before, from the air, it's cool to see the peak rising above the cloud layer.

Anyway, Miyakojima reminds me of one of the outer islands of Hawaii.  Tropical air, warm and moist (but not really icky). It is part of Okinawa Prefecture. The airport is small, maybe just one or two gates.  Two baggage claim carousels.  A single large room with about 10 check in stations, with crowds of recent-arrivees inching for elbow room at the rental car booths (Forget trying to use public transport here). Anyway, it looks all foreign to me, and I'm at a loss, since I can't find my Rental Car agency booth. Turns out there isn't a booth for ours.  Just a lady standing outside Baggage Claim, carrying a sign that said, "Times Car Rental."  I simply say my last name, and she nods, as if in understanding. I call to Connie, Sammie, and Emily to come to me, and follow her to her small van.  There are about three or four other groups to get into this van, and since we're the last to get there, there's only room for the three of us!  I get to sit on the floor, next to the door. It's only a short drive to the rental car place, about 2 km from the airport.

Once we get there, the lady points to a Nissan Note, which I think is a kind of Versa? "That's your car," she says (the Japanese are really efficient).  As soon as I get out of the van, she says I can just put our luggage right into the hatch. I was worried that we wouldn't have room for our luggage, but turns out that unlike the van that got us there, our car had plenty of room. Once I walk into the cramped agency office, a man, with very good English skills, calls my name, and we finish the paperwork.  Connie and I both got International Driving Permits, and I'll note later why that was a great idea.

Driving on the left, or wrong, side of the road just doesn't make sense.  Good thing it was a quiet Sunday morning, because I made numerous mistakes right off.  Turn signal wand is on the right, or wrong, side of the steering column.  So, every time I want to turn, the windshield wipers go... The GPS works well, which the Times guy reprogrammed to English.  However, one time I push some erroneous buttons on the Navigation menu, and I guess I punched "Go Home."  I thought this was to the home part of the menu of the GPS.  Nooo, the GPS now wants to navigate to "home," which is programmed to the Times agency location!  I still haven't figured out how to fix this, and the annoying lady on the GPS keeps telling us to turn left or right to get back to the airport.  I can't even figure out how to turn the volume of the lady's voice down or off.  I guess I have to call them to help me figure this out.  

I decide to use the maps app in my iphone to navigate.  I have my pocket wifi to avoid roaming charges with data downloads.  The maps app (not the google map app) easily caches map data (uses vector data rather than bitmaps like google), so I can actually be offline (there is no cell coverage for the pocket wifi all over Miyakojima) and still navigate.  But, I can't really do this and drive at the same time (let alone drive on the wrong side). Connie kept telling me not to drive so close to the curb. She laughs when the wipers come on with each turn.

So, Connie gets to drive and I'm her wingman. She does a great job with driving. 

Only, now I get to tell her not to drive so close to the curb.  And I get to laugh with the wipers.

We drive across "Ikema-bashi" to Ikemajima, an island just north of Miyakojima.  The water looks crystal clear.  Here's Sam.

I wanted to go to a place called Ikema Island Drive In, which got some good reviews in Tripadvisor, for lunch, but it looked too cheesy.  There were a whole bunch of tourists there too.  But I couldn't figure out why.  Turned back and then roamed around Hirara (the main city on the island), but we didn't find anywhere to eat.  The town looked pretty dead (Sunday).  We decided to go to our hotel, the Breeze Bay Marina, and along the way, I spied a Max Valu (sic) store. I remember reading that this was the main supermarket on the island.  We bought a bunch of bento boxes and sat there to lunch.

I got a box of Sushi for about ¥500.  Em makes her own bento box with four different ingredients for minimal ¥.  Connie got a bento with bitter melon and rice, with a small piece of Chicken Karaage.  Not bad.

The drive from the airport or downtown to our hotel is about 20 to 25 minutes, I would estimate.  Not because of the distance, which is short, but because the speed limit on most of the roads.  40 kmh. Easy to go 65 in a 40 zone. Gotta be careful.

We were able to check in to our hotel after that.  We got two rooms on the 9th floor next to each other with superb views (which we haven't photographed yet).  Here are a couple of "real time" photos taken minutes ago from our balcony as I write this while sleep deprived. 

After a "relaxing afternoon," sorting out internet connections in our hotel, as well as pool, snorkeling details, the kids and Connie go to the pool and beach.  There is scattered debris on the sand, possibly from the typhoon?  The sand on the beach on the property is very rocky.  But the water is very clear, fortunately.

Last night, we have our usual discussions about where to eat!  Miyakojima isn't a foodie destination, by any stretch.  But I do my usual research, and find, on Tripadvisor, that the #1 of 99 restaurants is close by to us.  Called Hirochan Shokudo, it is an unusual local hangout, with primarily Okinawan cuisine.

We start with the local beer, Orion.  Local, as in Okinawa, since it brewed on the island of Okinawa, not Miyakojima. But I make the mistake of ordering the "special" Orion, not the usual Nama-biru. It is the draft, mixed with Papaya juice over ice in a frosty mug.  It wasn't too good. Then, Edamame and Umi-budou.  The edamame was simple but satisfying.  The umi-budou is crunchy, not unlike the texture of tobiko.  The flavor is somewhat fishy and marine-like, which is not surprising, given its provenance.  We all really like it.  Em gets a Green Papaya Champyo, which is like a vegetable stir fry.  Connie gets an Zaru Udon dish with very chewy (that's good, by the way) noodles.  I get a Tonkatsu set, which was quite good with a bowl of udon.  Flaky, and not oily, but the pork was kind of dry (in a not bad or good way).  We had a hard time ordering due to the language barrier, and only later, back in the hotel room, I read one of the reviews that states "with an English menu for those of us..."  How come the waitress didn't realize this and offer us the English menu?  This was the way the service was.  However, the quality of the food was such that we'll likely go back.

Anyway, off to plan our Monday a bit more...

Itinerary for Summer 2014 Japan trip

Due to the recent Typhoon Neoguri, we have had to switch our itinerary for this trip. Fortunately, the Island of Miyakojima, in Okinawa, was spared damage, despite getting a near miss by the eye of this Hurricane. But, we had to cancel our Kiso Valley trip due to a mudslide caused by Neoguri. Sadly, one child was killed in this tragedy.  The railway that we were to take was shut down to all but local traffic, and bus travel is a slow and daunting task in that area.  We decided to spend that time in Kyoto.

Itinerary for Summer 2014 Japan trip:

18 July PM Fri

Depart SFO

19 July Sat
late night

Arrive HND

20 July Sun
Spend the night homeless at HND

HND > MMY early AM

Miyakojima (Breeze Bay Marina)

21 July Mon

Miyakojima

22 July Tue

Miyakojima

23 July Wed

Miyakojima

24 July Thu

MMY > HND late PM

Tokyo Super Lohas Yaesu Tokyo Ekimae

25 July Fri

Tokyo Super Lohas Yaesu Tokyo Ekimae

26 July  Sat

Tokyo Super Lohas Yaesu Tokyo Ekimae

1200 Sushi Iwa reservations

27 July Sun

Tokyo Super Lohas Yaesu Tokyo Ekimae

Probably to Satou in Kichijoji

28 July Mon
Tokyo Super Lohas Yaesu Tokyo Ekimae

Kyoto Granvia Hotel

29 July Tue
To Kiso Valley
Kyoto Granvia Hotel

30 July Wed
To Kinosaki Onsen
Nishimuraya Honkan
relax...  Ahhhh

31 July Thu
To Onomichi
  via Amanohashidate
Green Hill Hotel Onomichi

1 Aug Fri
To Osaka
  via Okunoshima
Granvia Osaka

2 Aug Sat 

  Crab at Kani Doraku?
Granvia Osaka

3 Aug Sun
  All day free
  To HND in evening

<Arrive SFO at about 5PM>

4 Aug Mon

Depart HND very early AM

We'll miss these guys

Japan Itineraries 2010 - 2013

2010

Tokyo 3 nights 
  Four Seasons Marunouchi

Hiroshima 2 nights
  ANA Crowne Plaza
  visited Peace Park and Miyajima
  visited Chikara and Yukiko san
  
Kyoto 1 night
  Motonago
  Nijo Castle
  Nishiki Market
  Kinkakuji
  Kiyomizu-dera

Tokyo 3 nights
  Four Seasons Marunouchi


2011

Tokyo 4 nights
  Four Seasons Marunouchi

Kanazawa 1 night
  ANA Kanazawa

Shirakawa-Go day trip

Takayama 1 night
  Hanaoka

Kyoto 4 nights
  Granvia Kyoto

Tokyo 4 nights
  Four Seasons Marunouchi


2012

Tokyo 4 nights
  Four Seasons Marunouchi
  Day Trip to Nagoya for Sumo

Noboribetsu 1 night
  Daiichi Takimotokan

Sapporo 4 nights
  JR Nikko Sapporo
  Day trip to Furano

Day trip to Hakodate AM Market

Tokyo 4 nights
  Four Seasons Marunouchi


2013

Tokyo 4 nights
  Four Seasons Marunouchi

Hakone 2 nights
  Fujiya Hakone-Yumoto